It has long been a dream of mine to travel New Zealand. After all, if you were born in the late nineties it is Middle Earth; a mystical land of erupting volcanoes, enchanted forests and vast open plains. This has always given it a huge appeal to me and I have spent many hours figuring out my ideal route to take between its islands. After securing a place on a Masters course this September I decided to take the opportunity. So I quit my job, jumped on a plane and headed down under. (I’m not totally sure if NZ qualifies as Down Under, but you get the gist). Alas, fate oft conspires to chuck a spanner in the works and so not 3 weeks after arriving, I found myself in lockdown on the other side of the planet. Honestly, of all the years I could have chosen to go travelling, I had to pick this one didn’t I?
A bit of background before I continue however. My name is Huw Grant and I’ve been a volunteer with the Living Levels since about June 2018. I’m an Archaeology graduate from Cardiff University and volunteer mainly with Gavin Jones helping to run activities. You might’ve seen me around if you’re a volunteer or regular visitor as I've been involved in a lot of different stuff over the last couple of years. Gavin has asked me to write a short article to go up on the website (he must be getting desperate). So without further ado, here are the musings of a stranded Brit.
Upon arriving in Wellington Airport (the final leg of my journey to New Zealand) I was picked up by Rohan who I would be staying with for the next 2 weeks (Or so I thought!). As he filled me in on the particulars of his household I was struck by the sight of Wellington Harbour and the city behind it. Of the countries I have been to New Zealand is unique in that you can’t really tell you’re heading into a city before you actually reach it.
Whether by an environmental quirk or deliberate design I'm not sure, but I was immediately struck by how green Wellington was. There are so many trees you can barely tell you’re in a city at all. The surrounding countryside was similarly stunning and while Rohan was dismissive “oh that's nothing” it will leave a lasting impression that I won't readily forget.
New Zealand is a rather unique country in that while its till possesses a rich biome of flora and fauna all its own, the early colonials in NZ saw it as a “primordial” version of the UK and tried very hard to turn it into an idealised version of their erstwhile home. As a result one of the first things I noticed is how familiar it is. Apple trees dotted the garden, Brambles heavy with blackberries draped lazily across fences and the air was thick with the song of thrushes and blackbirds. This effect was admittedly lessened somewhat when a pukeko (a sort of long-legged large moorhen) wandered into view or when I noticed the proliferation of fruit trees; citrus fruits, peaches, tamarillos and kiwis all excel in New Zealand’s warm but temperate climate.
You may have heard on the news of the 10,000 or so British Nationals stuck in New Zealand as the lockdown came in and it did come in without much warning. With hindsight, it's amazing just how quickly everything changed. When I left the UK on the 9th March the government advice was to treat everything as normal but wash your hands regularly for at least 20 seconds. That was it. Less than 2 weeks later the UK and indeed pretty much every country in the world was under a total lockdown. Not long after I arrived in NZ I went into Wellington to enquire about jobs and travel opportunities (that’s how normal everything still was). The late summer sun was blazing and the streets were still packed. Cuba street hipsters milled about, cafes and restaurants buzzed with idle conversation and all shops were open. After chatting with a waitress at a local cafe I was even told where best to apply for hospitality jobs! As far as Wellington (and indeed much of the world at that point) was concerned, it was business as usual. A week later the NZ PM Jacinda Adern announced the Level 4 Lockdown and that was the end of that. So there I was, stranded on the other side of the planet during the largest pandemic since Spanish Flu. I will admit, I was caught a little unawares.
I have however been extremely fortunate in my circumstances here. I've been spending my time Wwoofing (a term not well known in the UK but very popular in New Zealand). It stands for WorldWide Opportunities on Organic Farms and basically means you work on a farm in exchange for food and board, it’s quite a simple system but works very well. I therefore have access to about 100 acres of beautiful farmland and am keeping busy doing various bits of farm work and gardening. My original plan was to work here for 2 weeks but 2 months later I’m still here and am writing this article from a rather battered old computer in the main living room. This state of affairs has suited me very well however and as far as spending a lockdown goes, you can't get much better. If you have ever had the pleasure of visiting New Zealand you will know that Kiwis are a famously kind and generous people and, from my experience it is a reputation well deserved.
With the level 4 Lockdown now easing to Level 3 people are able to travel, and in Wellington some restaurants and cafes have opened back up (albeit in a very limited capacity and with stringent distancing measures). New Zealand’s response to the crisis has been nothing short of exceptional and we are expected to be able to ease restrictions further as early as next Wednesday!
Although this is not at all the trip I was expecting, it has nevertheless been an unforgettable experience. I appreciate just how fortunate I am compared to many others. Stay safe, take care and I hope to see you again once this has blown over.
Huw Grant
For general queries about volunteering with Living Levels, please contact the Living Levels Volunteer Coordinator, Beccy Williams: rwilliams@gwentwildlife.org